Alaska Adventures - Bird to Gird

Things can get a little frantic in Alaska in the summer. We know we have a pretty solid six months of winter ahead so everyone (and I do mean everyone) in the state makes an effort to get out and make the most of any sunny day that the sun gods bestow upon us. Dishes rot in the sink, dust bunnies gather their dusty little armies under beds and not a child in town understands the concept of "bedtime" (who can sleep when it's light out at 11pm anyway?!)

B and I recently decided to make the most of a beautiful Alaska day by doing one of our favorite bike rides, known as the "Bird to Gird" bike trail. This trail starts at the Bird Creek campground area, which is about 15 minutes south of Anchorage, and goes all the way to the town of Girdwood, located about 45 miles out of town. We like to park a little further down the highway at the Beluga Point parking lot and go from there, which is roughly 12 miles round trip and is a moderate, albeit somewhat hilly, ride. The parking area is a great spot for photo ops, with a nice walkway that takes you out near the water. And where else will you see Beluga whales rising from the sidewalks?!

It was a perfect day and we enjoyed perfect views of Turnagain arm, peeking out from the trees as we made our way toward Girdwood.

The drive from Anchorage to Girdwood is one of Alaska's scenic byways, and I consider it one of the most beautiful drives in the country, summer or winter. A word of caution, however. The highway is unfortunately also one of the most dangerous in the country, so if you do make the drive, please adhere to the posted 55mph speed limit, keep your headlights on, and never, ever pass in a no-passing zone.

Since we were on the bike trail we didn't have to worry about traffic hazards. There were other worries though, like the tons of bear scat we saw on the trail. Despite living in Alaska all my life, I have an almost phobic fear of bears, and an unprecedented number of bear attacks this summer hasn't helped. I countered that fear by singing very loudly the whole bike ride, which I'm pretty sure scared off any bears (and a few people) in the area. We did stop at this pretty little glacier waterfall along the way though.

As you get closer to Girdwood, you can see one of Alaska's majestic glaciers nestled into a mountainside, as well as sentinels of dead spruce trees, which are leftovers from the 1964 earthquake. Tidewater invaded the area during the quake, poisoning the spruce to death and leaving behind their ghostly, stoic remains.

There are plenty of rest stops along the way, and the path is both pedestrian-friendly and wheelchair accessible. If you're visiting from elsewhere, you can rent bikes for the day or longer from one of several places around town, or you can walk the trail if you prefer a slower pace. The bike trail goes all the way to the gas station/grocery stop that marks the beginning of Girdwood, but we usually turn around at the railroad tracks.

One cheesy love selfie later, we were on our way back to the car. Please don't be too jealous of my cool pink bike helmet, I know it rocks!

There are days I wonder what it would be like to live in a place where sunny days didn't mean that much, when you'd rather sit inside and enjoy the air conditioning than go out and face another sweltering day. It might be nice to not worry about those looming winter months, and know that if you don't get outside in the nice weather today, there's always tomorrow.

But I also think no one appreciates good weather quite as much as Alaskans do. Summers are short, winters are long, and those frantic sunny days and long, light-filled summer nights are treated like a beautiful gift. Whether we're fishing, hiking, camping or biking, we make the most of what we're given. We don't complain about another sunny day, we don't worry about A/C (most of us don't even have A/C!) and we try our best to get outside.

So get on your bikes and ride, Alaska. Winter is coming. Winter is always coming.

Time Machine to Thailand

My first career, back in the day, was as a customer service agent for a major air carrier. As any airline employee will tell you, one of the best parts of the job is the flight benefits. Being able to travel for next to nothing is a huge perk, and a good one since it's never been a job that would net you any kind of fortune! My friends and I were always all about our next destination, and we would scrape our money together as often as we could in order to travel. It usually hinged on whatever airline might be offering the best employee rate, and for this trip, it was China Air, LAX to Thailand for $145 round trip. 

This was 1993, when planes weren't always packed to the gills and special rates were available for airline staff based on shared ticketing agreements and goodwill. You could also get special rates at hotels and for rental cars. Nowadays,  it's a lot harder to travel standby and the hotel deals and car deals just don't exist like they used to, thanks to the internet and the eight million discount travel sites out there.

Apparently, this was also before we learned to pack light. What the hell are we even doing with all this luggage??

We flew into Bangkok and checked in at our hotel, which wasn't anything special but was also something like $10 a night in U.S. dollars. It was clean, it had a private bath and a shower. We were in our 20's. All good.

Our first adventure in Bangkok was a boat tour on the river. This was a great way to get a view of the city, and a somewhat sobering reality as to daily life there.

  

We also did a tour of the Grand Palace.  There are no shorts or bare legs allowed inside, as it's considered very disrespectful. Conveniently, they rent long wrap skirts just outside the palace walls! 

Those skirts were not very comfy in the 100-degree heat, but the palace was beautiful.

We wandered the city, exploring the markets and laughing hysterically as we naively trusted our lives to the crazy tuk-tuk drivers! And because I am a sucker for those kind of things, I did the "make a wish and set a bird free to carry it" game that locals like to play on tourists (you pay to set the bird free with your wish. The birds are tame and come back a little while later to their owners and food, lol! I guess the bird vendors are making their own wishes come true!)

After spending a few days in Bangkok, we made our way north to Chiang Mai. I remember the hotel there was smaller, but much nicer. I don't know what Chiang Mai is like now, but back then it was quieter and less touristy than Bangkok. More recently, it has been listed on TripAdvisor's "Best Destinations in the World" list, so I'm guessing it's still as beautiful as I recall.

In Chiang Mai, we did a day-long trek through the jungle. We hiked, rode elephants from the village to the river, then took a bamboo raft down the river and back to our vehicle. 

At the time, I had no idea that the elephants used in those kind of tours are often mistreated, and I probably wouldn't do a tour like that today. 

I think my favorite thing about Thailand was the people. Here I am chatting with a little girl who was trying to sell me some necklaces (of course I bought some, how cute was she?!)

A note on the Thai people: We got lost in Bangkok one day when one of my girlfriends and I decided to venture out on our own. We started walking, thinking we were heading in the direction of a jewelry store my friend had heard about. As we walked, we realized we’d left the main drag of the city and were getting deeper and deeper into more industrial areas. It was the middle of the day, so we weren’t overly concerned. Eventually, we realized we were the only two women walking out on the street, and the shop owners and workers around us were eyeing us suspiciously. Suddenly a young man in a suit approached us and asked brusquely where we were going. When we told him, he hailed a tuk-tuk and put us in it, sending us on our way with a shake of his head. For a complete stranger to step in and send us in the right direction, speaks volumes to me insofar as the heart of the people there. 

Working in the airline industry, I knew I was never going to make much money. But there are other kinds of wealth in this world. And how can you put a price on tuk-tuk rides through Bangkok at night, exploring the jungle on the back of an elephant, the kindness of strangers and most of all, a lifetime of friendship. We never had a lot of extra cash on all those wild vacations we took together. But oh, we were so rich.

All the Aloha

Alaska and Hawaii have always had a bit of a romance going on. Both the youngest states of the U.S., both off in their own little island-like world, both always in the wrong place on maps...there's a lot we have in common! A good portion of Alaska residents make Hawaii a regular getaway, as Alaska Airlines has a quick non-stop from Anchorage to Honolulu and travel specials that sometimes go as low as $400 round-trip.

B and I are no exception. We've gone to Hawaii at least once or twice a year since we've been together, and we aren't tired of it (or each other!) yet. We've been to several islands, but always come back to our favorite, Maui. We prefer to stay in Kihei and Wailea, which is a bit quieter than the more touristy Lahaina and Kaanapali areas. 

Maui isn't as lush as Kauai or as jungly as The Big Island. It's more of a desert landscape and usually has less rain and more sun than some of the other islands. And since sun is what we seek when we go to Hawaii, this suits us just fine! I thought it would be fun to share some of our favorite spots in Maui and things to do when you're there.

Where to Stay

I've always used VRBO for our Maui trips, and we've found great deals at several condos. We especially like Maui Kamaole, as its sits right on the edge of Kihei, just before you head into Wailea, and is a little quieter than the condos that are located in the middle of town.

We've also stayed at The Palms in Wailea, which is quite a bit more expensive but the condos are really nice and well-cared for. I think Maui Kamaole wins in regards to the beautiful grounds all around it, but The Palms is nice because it's walking distance to a lot of our favorite Wailea hang-outs.

Beaches

Of course, Hawaii is all about the beaches and Maui has some of the most gorgeous beaches on any of the islands. Kihei town fronts beaches Kamaole I, II and III, all of which flow into each other and are very convenient as they are located directly across the main street. Nearly any condo you choose in Kihei is going to be a very easy walk to one of these beaches.

One of our favorite beaches, though, is a bit off the beaten path. Poipu beach, which is adjacent to Po'olenalena beach on the way to Makena, is only accessible by footpath. Look for the Po'olenalena  sign, on the right as you leave Wailea, and park in the gated parking lot there. Then take the footpath located to the right of the parking lot, clamber over some lava rocks, and you're at a private tucked away beach. Fair warning, the fact that it's tucked away makes it nude-friendly and it has become a bit of a party haven on the weekends. But it's still a lovely spot!

Things to Do

We mostly prefer to do a whole lot of nothing when we visit Maui, but we still try to plan one small adventure each trip. Some things we've done include driving up to Haleakala National Park and exploring the amazing vistas of the volcano crater, which we really enjoyed (beware the altitude though, that stuff is real!)

Closer to Kihei, you can drive out to the end of Kihei road, past Wailea and into the lava fields. This is really cool to see, and you can walk out among the lava rocks (stay on the path, though!), right up to the ocean.

For snorkeling, I highly recommend Kai Kanani Snorkeling Cruises. They offer both day and evening excursions and they pick up right off the beach in Wailea, which is really convenient if you're staying in Kihei or Wailea, and saves you the drive to the Maalaea boat launch or Lahaina. They take you out to Molokini crater, stop to check out turtles along the way, and provide a nice lunch (and cocktails of course!) One of my favorite Maui memories was on the Kai Kanani, when we came across a huge pod of Dolphins with BABIES and they swam alongside the boat. Magical.

Another fun afternoon drive is over to Paia Town, where it's a bit more laid back and casual, with lots of fun and funky little shops and restaurants. Stop in at Mama's Fish House on your way, a world-renowned restaurant that serves the freshest catch and prides itself on innovative and unusual dishes. This is the restaurant where we once saw Owen Wilson dining, and I sat there telling B that it was NOT Owen Wilson, because I have some kind of weird lack of facial recognition when it comes to seeing celebrities in real life. Oh, and be sure to stop and check out the surfers catching some waves.

Mama's Fish House signature Black Pearl dessert

 

The beachfront of Mama's Fish House offers great photo ops!

Shopping

Kihei and Wailea have plenty of shopping, with everything from kitschy souveniers to the latest designer duds. Head up to The Shops at Wailea for all the things most of us can't afford, such as Versace or fine art, which is conveniently alongside more standard mall fare like Roxy and The Gap. Or go to into town to Kihei Kalama Village, where you can find all those fun souveniers everyone back home just has to have, and then some. And of course, there's our favorite place, the ABC Store. No matter what you're looking for, ABC has it! Wine, cheese, snacks, macadamia nuts, souveniers, flip flops, jewelry, sock monkeys, oh the list goes on and on!

Food

I saved the most important part of Maui for last. The food. First, let me tell you about Happy Hour (yes, that's with a capital H.)  Between Kihei and Wailea, you could easily go to Happy Hour every night of your vacation at a different restaurant, all of which offer some truly delicious (and affordable) options. The Happy Hour at Five Palms, located just by the Kihei Boat launch, offers a variety of apps and drinks for half price, with a beachfront location that can't be beat. Try the ribs or the calamari, and their Mai Tais are spectacular! Our Wailea go-to Happy Hour spot is Tommy Bahama. Their martinis are always good and the chicken lollipops should be double-ordered because they disappear fast! We also love the scallop sliders, even though those aren't on the happy hour menu. 

For more family-friendly fare, check out Fred's Mexican Cafe on Taco Tuesday. For the freshest choices, go with the catch of the day or scallop tacos, washed down with a cold beer or margarita. And you have to get a silly pic out front while you're there! Here's one of me and my son, back in the day.

Sansei Japanese restaurant in Kihei town is another top family spot, with options that keep both kiddos and adults happy. Try their award winning panko crusted ahi-sashimi roll for something fresh and different. Pita Paradise in Wailea is another great little spot. Hidden away in a strip mall, its Mediterranean food and decor will make you think you've stumbled onto a Greek Island instead of Hawaii. And for breakfast, eggs benedict fans will be in heaven over at Longhi's in Wailea. They have several varieties of benedicts, and I think we've tried them all.

If it's fine dining you're after, there is nothing like Ferraro's, located at the Four Seasons hotel. The most exotic dishes you can imagine, the freshest pasta and ocean views make this a place you won't want to miss. Sunset at Ferraro's is a Maui staple, as are the violinist duo who play there in the evening. Ferraro's has won awards for being the "most romantic" dining venue, and with good reason.

I confess, I have a terrible sweet tooth and Ululani's Shave Ice, is, as far as I'm concerned, the only shave ice place on the island! Located on Kihei road just on the edge of town, locals and tourists alike know there isn't a better place with friendlier service, to get your shave ice on. The kids working there are always upbeat, friendly and make a point of asking where you're from. 

Maui has come to feel like a second home to us, and we look forward to many more years of vacationing there. 

Oh did you think you were gonna escape having to see our cheesy love selfies? Oh no my friends, I have yearrrrs of Hawaii selfies of us, years! I'll only share a few here though...

 

 

A visit to Maui means leaving all those mainland worries behind and slowing your roll down to pretty much zero. Put your toes in the sand and stay awhile, it's always island time in Hawaii.

Hanging out in Homer

I feel very lucky to live in a state that has so much beauty and gives me the opportunity to explore different places without going too far off the beaten path. Alaska's landscapes are varied, and you can go from urban city streets to quiet hiking trails in a span of about 15 minutes. It's not unusual to see moose, or even bears, strolling down neighborhood streets, and I've been privy to eagles soaring right over my head and beluga whales swimming just offshore on one of my regular running routes. It's one of the things I love most about living here, being so close to nature while still enjoying my city girl life. Whether you want to see mountains, ocean or historical sites, it's all here.

With all this hometown beauty to explore, it's no surprise that sometimes we travel close to home rather than jetting off to the next adventure. One of my go-to places for an Alaskan getaway is the town of Homer, AK.

Located approximately four hours from Anchorage, Homer is often referred to as "the end of the road" as it sits on the shores of Kachemak Bay and has a narrow gravel bar, known as the Homer Spit, that extends out into the bay. With a year round population of just over 5,000 people, summer brings tourists and lots of fishing, as well as sightseeing, camping and even some shopping!

The drive to Homer is very picturesque and has lots of potential stops along the way. You can stop in at the town of Girdwood, home to Alyeska Ski resort, have a snack at the Bake Shop and take a tram ride up the mountain. Or get up close and personal with bear and moose at the nearby Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center, You can also drive just next door to Portage Glacier and take a tour.

We are usually so eager to get to Homer we rarely stop anywhere while enroute. When we crest that final small hill into town,  and I can see the bay stretching out before me, all my everyday worries just disappear.

We like to stay right on the beach on the Homer Spit, which has great camping. There's also the Land's End Resort if camping isn't your thing. We "camp"  in our truck, which has a nice full-size bed and canopy, making for easy (as in none) unpacking and packing up. Really, it's more like glamping. 'cause that's how we roll.

We don't do much when we're there. Build a fire, eat s'mores, walk on the beach, sit and stare at the ocean for hours, watch sea otters play, what more could you want?

 

 

 

We like to walk over to Finn's Pizza for dinner, which serves amazing wood-fired pizzas and is right on the beach! If you're looking to belly up to the bar,  the Salty Dawg, a Homer landmark, is a must-see for tourists and locals alike. Pin a dollar bill on the wall with your name on it to commemorate your visit!

There is an overabundance of fishing charters available for anyone who wants to try for that trophy halibut, or you can take a water taxi to nearby Halibut Cove, a popular little artists colony with some lovely galleries and a nice place to lunch. And if you're looking for shopping, the boardwalks on the Spit have several charming little gift shops with beautiful handmade art pieces and Alaska-made clothing.

But really, Homer is one of my favorite places simply because it allows for an endless amount of goofing off! Walking on the beach, playing in tide pools, picking up shells and sea glass, that's my happy place.

 

 

 

B and I have been coming to Homer for years, and we cherish our time here (insert that cheesy love-selfie...yep, every time, get used to it!)

To be able to take a fairly short drive and be in a completely different environment, well, that's one of the things that makes Alaska so sought-after. People save their whole lives to come and see these things that we take for granted.

Spending time in Homer not only feeds my soul and my artist's spirit, it reminds me of what a gift living in Alaska can sometimes be (don't ask me that come January, though!) and gives me time to reflect on the things that really matter.

So if you're looking for a friendly little town to hang out, try spending some time at the end of the road in Homer. Where some roads end, real life begins.